Stunning and varied landscapes, welcoming and warm-hearted locals, plenty of activities for outdoor lovers, and incredible fish and meat cuisine make the Azores a must-visit destination for every traveler. This autonomous region of Portugal is an archipelago in the mid-Atlantic, featuring the beautiful São Miguel Island, the largest and most frequented.
Renowned as the green island due to its rich and picturesque nature, it stands out as the most diverse among all the Azorean islands, which is precisely why my husband and I chose it for our week-long getaway.
Know Before You Go
- The Azores are part of Portugal. Although the Azoreans speak Portuguese, most speak excellent English. They are four hours ahead of EST and use the euro as their currency.
- It is not a tropical island, but rather has a subtropical climate, characterized by mild temperatures year-round due to the moderating influence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream, which keeps temperatures from becoming extreme. Winter averages are in the 50s and low 60s. The summer highs are in the mid to high 80s. With this in mind…
- Pack in layers for changeable weather. Rainwear is essential, as are sturdy, slip-proof footwear. The island is a mix of microclimates, so it may be sunny where you are and pouring elsewhere.
- Monitor the weather. Check the weather before you head out to certain sites, like Setes Cidades (which we visited on day 2 of our itinerary discussed below), where fog can prevent you from seeing this beautiful natural wonder.
- A rental car is a must. Although we are always wary about driving abroad, this island’s beauty lends itself to having a car. Public transport in the Azores is limited and best suited for travel between towns on the big island of São Miguel. One important note: Book a car in advance, especially during the summer high season. There is a limited number of cars, and you may find yourself without one without some planning. Of course, there are a variety of day tours if you prefer someone leading the way.
- Make sure to explore the ENTIRE ISLAND. There is so much to see. Exploring the beauty and diversity of this island is really key. Our rental car did us well. We chose to focus on different areas of the island each day, and this plan worked perfectly.
- Fish and steak dishes are king here. Being an island, it’s not surprising that all types of fish are on every restaurant menu. Cows dot the landscape wherever you go so steak and beef dishes are plentiful, but vegetarians, do not fear. There are plenty of food options.
Our Seven-Day São Miguel Itinerary
Before I get into the details of our adventure, I want to mention that no location on São Miguel was further than 45-60 minutes from where central Sao Miguel.
We opted to rent a car, and it turned out to be a great decision. The driving experience is quite straightforward. Just like in the U.S., Azoreans drive on the right side of the road. You’ll encounter numerous roundabouts, and in the Sao Miguel and the quaint towns, the roads tend to be narrow and predominantly one-way. Nevertheless, the drivers are polite, and I never heard any honking or swearing.
Day 1: Arrival in São Miguel
After a 5-hour overnight flight from the East Coast of the United States, we touched down at São Miguel airport early in the morning. Navigating through passport control and collecting our rental car was effortless. This was likely due to our visit in early November, which falls in the off-season. I can only imagine how busy such a small airport must be during the peak summer months.
Luckily, our lodging, the Azorean Urban Lodge, provided early check-in. With a communal kitchen and dining area available, we made a quick stop at Spar, the local supermarket, to grab bottled water, yogurts, snacks, and fruit for our breakfasts.
We were all set to begin our adventure!
While I typically recommend a walking tour, I felt this city was small enough for us to explore on our own. After doing a bit of research, we did a DIY tour, visiting the City Gates, the lovely Campo de São Francisco square featuring two churches and beautiful cobblestone patterns, and even climbed the bell tower.
Before departing from home, we secured dinner reservations at MUSA, a highly recommended farm-to-table establishment.
Day 2: Setes Cidades and Mosteiros Beach
Fortunately, we were greeted with a sunny day, so we set off to explore Setes Cidades, situated on the western side of São Miguel Island. Upon reaching the renowned Vista do Rei viewpoint, we were treated to our first glimpse of this natural marvel, where two lakes, one a deep blue and the other a vibrant green, intertwine amidst mountains adorned with lush greenery and forests.
The scenery is truly unlike anything we have ever encountered. It’s no surprise that this is the most iconic and frequented location on the island. We hiked around the emerald lagoon and ventured into the quaint town.
Now was the time to embrace a different atmosphere. We proceeded westward to the coastal village of Mosteiros, known for its breathtaking sunsets, black sand beach, stunning vistas, and natural swimming pools.
Seaside Vibz served up mouthwatering burgers for lunch with a view to die for. We wound up staying in the area for a couple of hours, sipping coffee, observing the waves, and befriending this little fellow.
After a full day, we tidied up at our hotel and set out for some Indian cuisine at Jewel of India.
Day 3: Ribeira Grande and Santa Barbara Beach
Heading north today, we ventured into Ribeira Grande, the second-largest city on São Miguel. This city is steeped in history, having been the home of the island’s first settlers. The stream that flows through the main square provided them with the means to construct mills for grinding grain. Additionally, the textile industry thrived thanks to immigrants from France. If you’re in search of grand monuments or large museums, you won’t find them here. Instead, it’s the old-world charm that truly sets this place apart.
We wandered through its streets and strolled along the promenade, visited the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Estrela (Main Church of Our Lady of the Star) and the famous Ribeira Grande bridge, with its eight arches, which stands as an iconic symbol of the city and is proudly displayed on its coat of arms.
As it began to drizzle and our stomachs started to growl, we made our way to Faria, a highly recommended local restaurant. It certainly lived up to the hype. We started with bread and Azorean white cheese, followed by fried cod for my husband and grilled squid for me. Delicious!
With our stomachs satisfied and the sun breaking through the clouds, we left Ribeira Grande and headed to Santa Barbara Beach, known for its surfing and stunning black sand shores.
On our return, we stopped by the Gorreana Tea Plantation, the only tea factory in all of Europe. Here we learned the tea-making process, sampled some teas, and took in the plantation’s beautiful landscape.
After a full day of exploration, a delightful dinner awaited us at the bistro, Louvre Michelsen.
Day 4: Furnas – Gardens, Thermal Baths, and Steak
São Miguel is renowned for its numerous thermal baths. The most popular and frequently visited one is located in the eastern town of Furnas. After enjoying a quick breakfast at Furnas’ Bolas Levedos Rosa Quental, we strolled over to Terra Nostra Park, celebrated for its thermal baths and botanical gardens.
The thermal waters might appear unappealing due to their brown hue. However, this coloration is not a result of mud but rather due to the high mineral content.
The botanical gardens are breathtaking. The gardens house nearly 30 acres of vibrant flowers and lush vegetation. While the thermal baths charge a fee, the gardens are free.
After we explored Furnas, we felt ready for a hearty late Sunday lunch, so we made our way to the Restaurant of the São Miguel Agricultural Association.
Known for its steak sourced from local, sustainably raised cattle, along with other dishes that showcase local produce, it is a must-dining experience when in São Miguel. There was a lengthy wait since they do not accept reservations, but these steaks were worth every single minute.
Absolutely mouthwatering!
Day 5 – Vila Franco do Campo, Ceramics and Pineapple
The southern region of the island was this day’s destination as we set out to discover Vila Franca do Campo.
Our initial stop was the Nossa Senhora da Paz Chapel, a stunning chapel perched on a hillside. According to local legend, it was constructed there after a shepherd discovered an image of the Virgin Mary. Perhaps it is the unique architecture, featuring 100 steps leading up to it, along with the breathtaking views of the town that await you at the summit.
From this vantage point, you can admire the Vila do Campo Islet, also known as the princess ring, which is the visible part of a small underwater volcano. This area is now included in the São Miguel Island Natural Park. Unfortunately, our planned boat trip to visit it was canceled. Hopefully, we can try again next time.
Next, we indulged in the renowned local pastry, Queijada da Vila, at Queijadas do Morgado.
Our afternoon also featured a visit to the Museu da Ceramica Vieira, where we learned about the artistry of this five-generation factory and even bought a few pieces. After that, we made our way to the Arruda Pineapple Plantation.
Finally, for dinner, our craving for pizza was fulfilled at Nonna’s Tomato and Teeth Pizza.
Day 6 – Nordeste and A Coastal Journey
After breakfast, we made our way to the eastern part of São Miguel, stopping at Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões, which completely amazed us and was free! Renowned for its vibrant green scenery, stunning waterfalls, and well-preserved 16th-century watermills, this area offers visitors the chance to explore various walking trails. After spending a couple of hours soaking it all in, we continued to Nordeste and had lunch at Elias Snack Bar.
Our afternoon drive took us along the coast, where we experienced the beauty of several miradouros, which are not merely scenic overlooks; In the Azores, they are beautifully landscaped spots perfect for wandering and taking in the views. Perhaps the most stunning was Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, recognized as having the highest concentration of flowers in the entire world.
Greek food at A Grega was on the menu tonight.
Day 7: Wrapping It Up In Ponta Delgada
Our final full day on the island was dedicated to visiting some of the São Miguel attractions we had overlooked. We kicked off our day with a delightful late breakfast at Jardim Coffee Roasters. This café is nestled within the Jardim Botânico António Borges, a 19th-century botanical garden celebrated for its varied sections, meandering paths, and English-style landscaping.
Established by António Borges da Câmara de Medeiros, this free-entry garden offers a tranquil environment to wander through, showcasing unique trees, small caves, a playground, and even endemic bird species. Needless to say, the entire landscape took our breath away, and it was free. Captivated by its diverse scenery, we roamed around, encountering some of its inhabitants, including roosters, ducks, and cats.
Our next stop was the Mercado da Graca, a bustling farmers’ market that boasts a wide array of fresh produce, meats, seafood, and more. Stops at the Fuerte de San Blas, a coastal Renaissance fort which has been transformed into a military museum, a visit to the city’s only synagogue, and a bit of shopping, including buying some popular canned sardines and tuna, rounded out our last relaxing day on this beautiful island.
Day 8: Homeward Bound
It was time to bid farewell to this beautiful island. Here’s hoping we will be back to explore more of what the Azores have to offer!
