When family and friends found out that my husband and I planned a trip to Budapest, Hungary, we were met with, “Why Budapest?” Not a response you’d get if you were traveling to London, Paris, or Rome. Our answer was simple. We heard amazing things about the city. Friends and family have stopped at this city on river cruises and loved it and a Hungarian friend was also an inspiration.
And let me tell you this city did not disappoint.
Budapest is one of those places you visit, and come away with a sense of surprise, gratitude, and happiness. Its effect on me and my husband was different than any other European capital we have visited so far. And probably for good reason. We both grew up during the Cold War and remember this country as part of the eastern communist bloc.
But how it’s changed and revitalized itself! It’s a mix of new and old. Its people are friendly, proud, and willing to share their lives with you. It’s clean, relatively inexpensive, and offers an array of good food, beautiful architecture, and history.
So, join me and my husband on our journey.
Day 1 – Departure
Our arrival to this city turned out to be a bit later than planned due to an airplane connection problem — actually about 5 hours later. But no worries. I’ve always offered this tip to any traveler: Do not book any tours or major sites on the day you arrive. This is a perfect example of why. For more of my tips for planning a European adventure, click here.
We settled into our hotel, T62 Hotel, on the Pest side. Perfectly situated near transportation, it offers a boutique feel, beautiful rooms in a renovated building, friendly and helpful staff, and, as we soon found out the next morning, a delicious daily buffet breakfast.
After a quick dinner at a nearby Turkish restaurant, we headed over to get our first views of the Danube River. Breathtaking! An early evening since we had a full next day planned.
Day 2 – Danube River and the Jewish Quarter
After breakfast at our hotel, we were supposed to hook up with a free walking tour of Budapest. Unfortunately, the tour guide got stuck in traffic and couldn’t get to us in time. The company was very kind and tried to accommodate us with another tour but our itinerary was pretty much set.
But no worries! Flexibility is key when traveling. You never know when something may pop up. So we adjusted our plans.
Already in the Hungarian Parliament area, we explored the outside (we had an inside tour booked for the following day) and headed toward the Jewish Quarter taking the promenade along the Danube. On the way, we stopped to view the “Shoes on the Danube.” This sculpture, consisting of 60 pairs of shoes, serves as a memorial of Jews who were murdered and thrown into the river in 1944 and 1945. The memorial opened in 2005.
A quick stop at Olympic Park (supposedly beautifully decorated during Christmas time) where there is a sculpture of the Olympic rings representing the Hungarian flag, a playground, and an open space to sit and unwind before we headed off to our next stop.
Arriving at the Jewish Quarter, visitors are met with views of the Dohány Street Synagogue, also known as the Great Synagogue. It is the largest synagogue in Europe, seating 3,000 people, and is a center of Neolog Judaism. In order to visit, you must buy an entrance ticket, which includes a tour, either online or at the front of the synagogue. One word of advice. Make sure your visit does not coincide with a Jewish Holy Day or celebration because you won’t be able to get inside or visit the grounds.
Our tummies were rumbling and lunch was in order. Prior to leaving home, I made lunch reservations at Mazel Tov. Yum!
After lunch, we continued exploring the streets of the quarter but soon it was time to head back to our hotel and clean up before our evening Danube cruise. This activity is a must for any visitor. There are cruise companies that offer day, evening, and dinner cruises. Pick what works best for you. Our hour-long cruise, which included a libation, was perfect!
After the cruise, dinner was in order and Hilda’s did not disappoint. I experienced my first goulash here! Yum.
An evening walk along the Danube and a visit to see St. Stephen’s cathedral all lit up brought us to a dessert fair. There were stands outside the cathedral selling an array of sweets.
When you get out and explore, you never know what you’ll stumble upon.
Day 3- Hungarian Parliament, Buda, and Madame Butterfly
After a sumptuous breakfast at our buffet, we headed out to take our booked tour of the inside of the Hungarian parliament. Important note: Tickets must be purchased online ahead of time. Don’t expect to show up and get in. This 45-minute audio tour (our choice but you can get a docent tour) provides the history of the building and offers its visitors a view of its beautiful architecture.
Did you know that the Parliament was recently voted the number one tourist attraction in Europe?
After the tour, we visited the memorial near the Parliament dedicated to Hungarians who lost their lives in a peaceful demonstration on October 25, 1956, when Russian tanks came in and senselessly killed innocent, peaceful protesters.
After a light lunch of acai bowls by the Danube, we were ready to explore the Buda side of the city.
There are trams to take you over to Buda but we chose a more popular way to accomplish this:
Walking across the Széchenyi Chain Bridge which spans the Danube between Buda and Pest, the western and eastern sides of Budapest.
Designed by English engineer William Tierney Clark and built by Scottish engineer Adam Clark it was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Hungary. It was opened in 1849. It is anchored on the Pest side of the river to Széchenyi (formerly Roosevelt) Square, adjacent to the Gresham Palace and the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, and on the Buda side to Adam Clark Square, near the Zero Kilometre Stone and the lower end of the Castle Hill Funicular, leading to Buda Castle.
The bridge has the name of István Széchenyi, a major supporter of its construction, attached to it, but is most commonly known as the “Chain Bridge.” At the time of its construction, it was regarded as one of the modern world’s engineering wonders. Its decorations are made of cast iron.
It was time to head back to the hotel and get ready for a delightful Saturday night.
A delicious Italian dinner at Ape Regina preceded a performance of Madame Butterfly at the Hungarian State Opera.
Day 4- House of Terror and Ruin Bars
Our day started with a visit to the House of Terror. The impact that this museum had is undeniable.
House of Terror was the headquarters of the Hungarian Political State Police and Nazi Party and contains exhibits related to the fascist and communist regimes in 20th-century Hungary. It is also a memorial to the victims of these regimes, including those detained, interrogated, tortured, or killed in the building. No photos are allowed and they do not offer online entry tickets. Remember this since we had to wait in line to get in.
After this sobering but must-see experience, we were ready for some eats so we headed back into the Jewish Quarter where we came upon an outside food court. Here, we experienced our first taste of the popular Hungarian street food, Langos.
With bellies full, we explored Simply Kert, one of the most popular “ruin bars” in Budapest. Ruin bars are basically a collection of bars, shops, and food establishments in abandoned buildings. Graffiti and plants decorate the interiors. After exploring a bit and having a drink, we continued on our way and did some shopping.
Middle Eastern mezze at Dobrumba for dinner topped off our day.
Day 5 – A Day Trip to Vienna, Austria
A day trip to Vienna was on this day’s itinerary. I purchased train tickets before we left home and, on the fast train, we were whisked to Vienna in about 2 ½ hours.
After a subway ride to the center, we hooked up with our booked walking tour which provided a history of the city and highlighted the must-see sites, including the Hapsburg Winter Palace, St. Stephen’s Basilica, the Opera House, and more. With just a full day in the city, this tour was well worth it and acclimated us to where everything was and what we wanted to go back to.
With grumbling tummies, it was schnitzel time! And no visit to Vienna is complete without trying this dish. Lunch at Nestroy Gasthaus and Biergarten did not disappoint.
Our afternoon was filled with visiting some top Vienna sites, including the beautiful St. Stephen’s Cathedral which is free to enter, Mozart’s apartment, and then, what I consider a must-see, a visit to the Capuchin crypts. It is here where the members of the famous Hapsburg dynasty are buried. Dessert and coffee at a traditional Vienna cafe and our evening fast train whisked us back to Budapest.
Day 6 – Szechenyi Mineral Baths and A Taste of Pawlinka
After a full day of traveling and touring Vienna, this couple needed a day of relaxation. A visit to the Szechenyi mineral baths fulfilled that need perfectly!
Szechenyi Baths is one of the largest spa baths in Europe with 15 indoor baths and 3 grand outdoor pools providing its visitors a respite from the outside world and a relaxing day amongst beautiful architecture.
If just soaking in the many pools is not enough, saunas, massages, and medical services are also offered here. Also, a cafe, bar, and snack services are onsite. You are also allowed to bring in your own food. An online reservation before you depart from home is advised.
Relaxed and refreshed, we headed back to our hotel to clean up and get ready for dinner.
BigFish Bistro was our choice for dinner. Afterward, we headed to the small Pawlinka museum for an overview of this Hungarian drink, its history, and, of course, a tasting. This extra was included in our bath tickets. We continued exploring the streets before heading back to our hotel for the evening.
Day 7- Exploring Szentendre
For our last day, we chose to explore a Hungarian town outside Budapest. Szentendre fit the bill perfectly.
A half-hour suburban train ride out of Budapest, this town on the Danube River, is known for its art galleries, baroque architecture, churches, colorful houses, and narrow, cobbled streets. The main square, Fő Tér, and the alleyways around it are perfect for exploring.
A sumptuous lunch at my namesake, Dorothea’s Bistro, and one final stop to pick up some Christmas ornaments and we were heading back to Budapest. A perfect half day!
After dinner, we wandered the streets of this wonderful city for the last time before our departure the next day. For this cat lover, dessert and coffee at the Budapest Cat Cafe capped off the evening.
Day 8 – Departure
For this couple, it was not goodbye to Budapest but until we met again.
