Let me start this post with one specific disclaimer. My husband and I are making a concerted effort to visit destinations we have never been to. This can, of course, be challenging but is certainly not impossible. So with this in mind, our destination choice for our March 2024 travel adventure was unique, at least for most Americans. We chose the beautiful country of Malta, an archipelago in the central Mediterranean Sea between Sicily and North Africa. It consists of three islands- Malta, Gozo, and Comino, each with its unique history and personality. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature buff, or a foodie, a trip to the Maltese Islands is an unforgettable experience for any traveler. So join us on our adventure and learn how we enjoyed seven perfect days in Malta.
Day 1- Good Morning, Valletta!
After an overnight flight from the US, which involved a connection through Zurich, we finally arrived at our hotel mid-morning. We chose to stay in Valletta, Malta’s capital, and would highly recommend that any visitor, whether first-timer or not, base themselves here.
Ursulino Valletta, a boutique hotel, was our accommodation choice and perfect for multiple reasons including its location, amenities, price, comfort, and, drum roll please, an all-inclusive daily breakfast on their rooftop terrace overlooking the Grand Harbour.
Who wouldn’t want to sip their morning coffee while enjoying these views?
Arriving mid-morning, our room was not ready so we dropped off our luggage at reception and headed out for brunch. A bit of research before we left home provided the perfect brunch spot, “Tribe.” Dining al fresco, while watching the world go by and eating their delicious creations was the perfect start to our adventure.
With our bellies full and our hotel check-in completed, exploring Valletta’s streets and neighborhoods was in order. We booked a walking tour for the following morning but I always recommend getting out and about after a long flight to get your bearings and help fight jet lag. The beautiful streets of Valletta did not disappoint.
The Barrakka Gardens was a perfect place to wander, enjoy breathtaking views of the Grand Harbor, people watch, and relax.
Every day, at noon and 4 pm, visitors can witness cannons firing in the Saluting Battery. This event has become purely ceremonial but its original purpose was to protect the city from the Ottoman Empire.
You can either pay a few euros to stand right next to the cannons or, like us, you can view the ceremony above the gardens for free.
Day 2- A Walking Tour, A Famous Painting and Rabbit Stew
A pre-booked walking tour of Valletta filled the morning of our second day. It offered a perfect overview of the country’s history, helpful advice, and some fun trivia. For example, did you know that Malta has been used as a filming location for many movies including Gladiator, Game of Thrones, and even the 80s flop, Popeye, starring Robin Williams? Today, its set is an amusement park. We passed on that.
After some delicious acai bowls for lunch, we set out to explore what is perhaps Valletta’s most popular site, St John’s Co-Cathedral, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Its outside does not prepare you for the beauty on the inside. Most of the city’s buildings were designed by a military architect (learned on our walking tour) and this cathedral’s exterior reflects this. It is also famous for housing Caravaggio’s famous painting, Beheading of St. John the Baptist.
Dinner at Beat Paoli was the perfect end to our day. Hubby tried Malta’s national dish, rabbit stew, and although I was not happy about eating a bunny, I must admit it was delicious!
Day 3 – Ancient Temples, A Burial Ground and A Beach Promenade
Most of Malta is a UNESCO world heritage site and our Saturday confirmed this. It was filled with exploring the Tarxiem Temples and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum burial grounds.
After a 20-minute bus ride from Valletta’s central bus terminal and a short walk, we arrived at our first stop.
The Tarxien Temples.
Built between 3600 and 2500 BC, this complex is the largest prehistoric site in Malta and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The original purpose of the temples was probably that of animal sacrifice, confirmed by reliefs of animals, some altars, animal bones, and the presence of tools such as a flint knife. Human remains were found at the center of the South temple and experts think that this is proof that the temples were re-used during the Bronze Age for burial.
We picked up Pastizzeria, a popular local street food, for lunch at Maxim’s before our next stop.
The Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum.
This is one of the two most important prehistoric burial sites in the Maltese islands. Important Note: To tour this site, you must purchase tickets online. Only 10 groups of 10 persons each are allowed to tour the grounds each day. The calendar books up fast so book ahead to avoid disappointment. Also, PHOTOS ARE NOT ALLOWED.
After several hours of touring burial grounds and ancient temples, it was time for a lighter to the coastal towns of Sliema and St. Jillian’s Bay where we had booked dinner reservations. We walked its beach promenade and stopped for a drink. I have to admit I wasn’t enchanted with this area. Compared to the historic charm of Valletta, this area is full of modern buildings and condos (and a lot of construction) and reminded me of any touristy beach area.
A delicious dinner at Temptasian Fusion and Lounge on the 9th floor of The Palace Hotel and we headed back to Valetta.
Day 4 – Exploring Gozo
Tuk tuk anyone?
To explore the island of Gozo, we chose to take an organized tour of this island rather than doing it ourselves. Keep in mind that if you wish to reach parts of Gozo outside of Victoria, its capital, a car is necessary. Bus service is limited. You can book the hop-on-off bus but it is limited to the city center.
After a pickup at a local meeting point, we were transported to the ferry on the other side of the island. It was a very windy day and the ferry was rocking.
Once we arrived in Gozo, our tuk-tuk tour guide whisked us off to our first stop, the Ta’ Pinu Basilica near the village of Għarb. The magnificent basilica is surrounded by breathtaking scenic views, making the church an absolute must-see.
Our Gozo adventure included a stop at the basilica, the beautiful Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs, the Xwejni sea salt pans and Gozo’s capital, Victoria to explore the Citadel.
Day 5- Exploring the Cities of Rabat and M’dina
This day was spent exploring two neighboring cities, Rabat and M’dina. Our first stop was Rabat, home to some impressive catacombs and archaeological remains. A highlight was visiting St. Paul Cathedral and its Catacombs. A short walk takes you to M’dina, known as the Silent City. Game of Thrones fans may recognize the entrance to M’dina.
Day 6- Exploring the Three Cities of Malta
Directly across the Grand Harbor from Valletta lie Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua. Known as the Three Cities of Malta, these fortified cities are examples of living history and should not be missed. We spent most of this day immersing ourselves in their beauty.
To start your adventure, a short ferry ride from Valletta drops you off at Vittoriosa, also known as Birgu. As your ferry enters the port, the views of yachts and boats are breathtaking.
Strategically located on a hillock, Fort St. Angelo was our first stop. Used throughout the centuries by Sicilians, the Knights of Malta, and as a short establishment for the British Navy during WWII, this fort is a must-see. We did not expect to spend as much time as we did exploring it. The rest of our day included exploring the delights of these cities which are no more than two miles apart.
A ferry back to Valletta, and another delicious dinner capped off another perfect day.
Day 7- Underground Valletta, Silver Shopping, and The Gran Master’s Palace
Did you know that Malta was the most heavily bombed country during WWII? Over 16,000 tons of bombs were dropped on this nation. Why? Its strategic location between Sicily and Africa made it an important point for Allied forces.
The resilient Maltese built a labyrinth of tunnels under Valletta to escape the bombing. Families would huddle in these tunnels for hours, days, and weeks, as their city was under siege.
Participating in Underground Valletta is a must-see. Please note that you must book the tour online . The tour is extremely popular and sells out quickly.
After our tour, it was time for some shopping, and silver was on our shopping list. Malta is known for its fine silver pieces at a modest cost. Our jeweler recommended visiting the Gran Master’s Palace which had just reopened in January 2024 after years of extensive restoration. We took him up on his advice and were so glad we did. This Palace is so beautiful and houses one of the most extensive armor collections in a room that spanned close to a football field.
A delicious dinner at Pappanis (looking at this makes my mouth water!) topped off our last day in this beautiful country.
Day 8- Departure
Goodbye, Malta! Until we meet again.
