When you think about Spain, what do you envision? For many, stunning architecture, a vibrant history, tasty food, pleasant weather, and its welcoming people are what truly shine.
As a travel couple, we’ve developed a deep affection for this country throughout the years, visiting Madrid, Barcelona, the Costa del Sol, and the Andalusia region during our journeys. This time, we decided to explore the northern part, famously known as the Basque Country, and I can’t believe we waited this long. Although we began and ended our trip with a few days in Madrid, this post will concentrate on our week spent discovering the cities and villages of the Spanish and French Basque region, where we made the lovely city of San Sebastian our base to kick off our adventure.
Before you go, here are some tips to help with your planning:
- The Basque region consists of various towns and villages situated in both Northern Spain and France. If you’re considering a visit for a week or shorter, I recommend choosing a single location to stay and then exploring from that base. The villages are quite near one another. You can conveniently travel to several cities by car, bus, or train.
- The weather in the Basque region is milder compared to the warm Costa del Sol or Barcelona, thanks to its proximity to the mountains and the sea. We went there in early May, and the temperatures were generally in the 60s. Ideal for sightseeing.
- The Basque region is a distinctive community with its own language. Approximately 1 million individuals worldwide speak it, and its inhabitants take great pride in preserving it. And no, it is not similar to Spanish or Italian.
- Food is truly king in this region, known for its many Michelin-starred restaurants. While tapas, small portions of food served on a plate the popular food in most of Spain, Pinxtos, on the other hand, are often skewer- or toothpick-mounted, sometimes on a slice of bread, and are the popular food here. You will see many bars with people standing, eating, and socializing.
- Take either a food tour or a cooking class. We did the latter, and it was a highlight of our trip, although honestly, there were many highlights from this beautiful place!
- Make a reservation at any must-visit restaurants BEFORE you leave home. The popular ones get booked up quickly, and you don’t want to be disappointed.
- The Spanish eat late, very late, compared to Americans. Dinner is typically at 9 pm or later. Most restaurants with seating may not open before 8 pm, but the many pinxtos bars are open all day, so no worries, you’ll never be hungry!
- In any Basque village, the best way to discover these quaint towns is by walking. While buses, trains (occasionally), and services like Uber or Bolt can help you travel between villages, you won’t need them once you get there. Most towns are small and easy to navigate on foot. Public transportation is affordable, dependable, and secure. I arranged bus trips for our excursions to Bilbao and St Jean de Luz before we left home.
- Take a walking tour for a great overview at the start of your trip.
- Opt for a day tour to a city outside your home base. We did this to explore San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and Guernica where using mass transit would be a hassle.
- Most importantly, just be and take it all in. This is not a region to be rushed. It is one to be savored.
So let’s begin..
Day 1 – Arrival in San Sebastián
After a five-hour train ride from Madrid, we arrived in beautiful San Sebastián. A compact city, our boutique hotel, Casa Nicolasa, was a pleasant 15-minute walk from the station and centrally located in Old Town.
After checking in, we headed out for some lunch, choosing a healthy option at Enxalau that served the most amazing salads, breads, and more. This place is very popular and I booked a reservation before we left home.
With our hunger satisfied, it was time to learn about this beautiful place, and a walking tour fit the bill. I always recommend taking a walking tour to start your visit to any city and have consistently booked Sandemann’s tours. The tours are “free” but are tip-based. I’ve found the guides to be fun and knowledgeable and this time around, it was no different. Our guide was a young man from Philadelphia whose mother was Basque. During his youth, he spent his summers in San Sebastián and, upon college graduation, decided to move here. Wise choice!
He provided a great history overview and a lay of the land so to speak, providing us with a good foundation to start our exploration in the coming days. To top off our evening, we opted for some Italian fare at Raviolini.
Day 2- A Basque Cooking Class and A View To Die For
Home to a high concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants focusing on the unique and delicious Basque cuisine, this city is any foodie’s dream come true. Sebastián is widely recognized as a global culinary hotspot, often referred to as the “food capital of the world” or “food capital of Spain”. So, for these two foodies, especially a husband who has quite the culinary skills, a cooking class was on our itinerary.
We booked a tour through Kookin Donastia, and it didn’t disappoint. For close to four hours, Carlos, our instructor, immersed us in creating an amazing four-course lunch. Starting in their local Mercado or market, Carlos taught us about the traditional Basque foods as we selected the ingredients for our lunch. And the fun was just beginning.
After a quick walk over to his cooking studio, we donned our aprons and started cooking!. First up was whipping up our dessert , a traditional Basque cheesecake. Not typically a fan of cheesecake, this version is so light and fluffy. My husband even loved it! Then it was on to making our first course – a cod omelette, followed by Hake and clams, then a steak. Each course was paired with a Basque cider or wine.
What an amazing experience! Highly recommend.
With our bellies full, it was time to climb a mountain. Well, sort of a mountain, Mount Urgull to be exact. A moderately challenging hike up a 1.4-mile loop trail takes you to the top. At its summit stands the statue of the Sagrado Corazón, an imposing figure standing 39 feet tall. Erected in 1950, the statue has become an iconic symbol of San Sebastián and can be seen from various points in the city.
Following our ascent, we ventured further into Old Town and strolled along the La Concha Beach promenade. Known as the most stunning beach in Spain and possibly all of Europe, its name signifies its crescent form.
One of the standout moments of our culinary adventure here was our dinner that evening. If you enjoy sitting down to savor your pinxtos rather than standing at the bar, securing a reservation at Atari is essential. This restaurant comes highly recommended, offering views of a lovely church right in front of it.
Day 3- A Day Trip to Bilbao
Our following day was dedicated to discovering Bilbao, the largest city in the Basque Country. Renowned as a significant cultural and industrial center, it is best known for the Guggenheim Museum and its vibrant gastronomy. Before departing from home, I secured bus tickets for our self-guided tour of Bilbao, and I’m really glad we did. Our bus was packed. I must express how satisfied we were with their buses and the convenience of using their public transport.
After approximately an hour and a half, we reached Bilbao. Many suggest immediately boarding a tram outside the bus station to head straight to Bilbao’s top attraction—the Guggenheim Museum—but we opted for a relaxed stroll, taking the time to walk through a park and gain a better understanding of the city. Signs are pointing you to the museum everywhere, making it difficult to lose your way.
Upon arrival, we were in awe of the museum’s architecture and famous “Puppy” sculpture outside its entrance. After taking a bunch of photos, we entered the museum using the timed tickets we booked online and enjoyed its many amazing art exhibits.
After a two-hour visit, we headed over to our lunch spot. Greek food was on the menu. The rest of our day included walking around its old town and taking it all in.
A bus back to San Sebastián and some pizza ended our perfect Sunday.
Day 4 – A Day Tour To San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and Guernica
Calling all history and Game of Thrones fans! This is a tour for you. While this couple prefers doing most of their travel independently, there are sometimes places that require a tour because of time or logistics. In the case of Guernika and San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, our choice was an excellent one for two reasons – the transport to get here would have been a nightmare and taken up too much time, and a tour gave us a really good overview, thanks to our amazing tour guide.
Our first stop was San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. More recently, it was made famous as the location for Dragonstone in Game of Thrones, where the character Daenerys Targaryen plots war against her enemies. For religious pilgrims, its hermitage is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. Both its climb up a 241-step staircase and its chapel at its peak are part of the religious experience, with crosses along the way. A local tradition involves ringing the chapel bell three times for good luck, and visitors can step in a footprint said to be Saint John’s.
A lunch stop in the beautiful seaside village of Mundaka, and we were off to Guernica, famous for the bombing it sustained by Hitler, killing over a third of the civilian population. Art enthusiasts know the famous Picasso painting named after this town. The original painting can be viewed at the Prado Museum in Madrid. A copy can be found in Guernica.
Day 5- A Taste of the French Basque Country – Day Trip to St Jean De Luz
The French Basque region offers a different vibe than its Spanish neighbor, but it is still just as charming. French is primarily spoken in its villages and towns and the culture, history, and food reflect that heritage. We chose to visit St. Jean de Luz, a small seaside resort that was once an important fishing port. Today, it is a culturally rich area for visitors to enjoy.
Our first stop was at Les Halles, where area-sourced food is beautifully displayed inside and outside. The sights and smells will truly make your mouth water. So, it was time for some breakfast. A cafe and a croissant in a beautiful square fit the bill.
St Jean de Luz is a place to savor and take it slow. It’s a day to immerse yourself in the local’s daily life and enjoy this captivating place. Take a long walk along the famous Grande Plage, visit the famous church where Louis XIV married and got lost in its streets and shops.. This is a town to be taken in not for any major sites but the pure Basque simpliciy. Although many choose to visit the more flashy Biarritz, I thought this town gave a real, authentic feel and is not be missed. And if you have the time, why not visit both!
After a day of exploring this beautiful French Basque village, we took a bus back to San Sebastian and got ready for another delicious dinner. La Madame, located across from La Concha Beach, did not disappoint.
Day 6 – La Concha Beach, Shopping, and A Goodbye Dinner
Our last day arrived and although sad to leave, we made the most of it. After breakfast, we enjoyed walking the beautiful promenade along world-famous La Concha Beach, watched surfers at the world-famous Zurriola Beach, did some shopping, and capped off our day with a goodbye paella dinner.
Victor Hugo summed up the charm and allure of this region best:
Everyone who has visited the Basque Country longs to return,
It is a blessed land.
This couple couldn’t agree more.
